rain

today, for the first time since i have been here, it is raining. it sends the smell of the earth and fallen leaves into the air, mixing the fresh with the damp smell of decay.

climbing san cristobal hill today, one could finally see all of santiago, even the snow-capped mountains! the one bad thing about winter here is that the smog settles. for weeks, we haven't even been able to see the foothills of the andes, and i haven't seen snow-capped anything at all. however, today, the rain cleaned the air, washed away the smog (probably in the river - ooph) and all was clean and clear and crisp.

i am starting to think of carving pumpkins and halloween costumes, not to mention thanksgiving. sadly, down south, we'll be getting those holidays when it is warm again, almost summer.

however, this rain takes me immediately back to salzburg, summer 2003. i was staying in a fraternity/hostel house, and it was still chilly, early in the summer. rain was pouring down outside and we all gathered in the bar area of the house (only in salzburg!) and listened to getz/gilberto "girl from ipanema" and danced, the heat of our bodies mixing with the cool air, creating a misty, truly magical atmosphere. that night, we were all so connected, needing nothing more than the rain and the music.

tonight i listen again to "girl from ipanema." though i am now in chile, the smells are the same, and the rain feels just as clear and pure.